Why Faux Flange Binding?
While I love to bind quilts by hand, sometimes a machine finish is a more practical use of my time. I’ve never been satisfied with the look of a regular machine binding–after I get done with it, it always seems to look a little messy or uneven. A faux flange binding looks neater and can add a nice pop of color and a little dimension, especially on a quilt without a border, like Wunderbar or almost any of my other patterns.
What you need:
To calculate how long your binding should be, measure the width and length of your quilt. Add them together and multiply by 2, then add another 15″-20″ to the total. Divide by 40 to figure out how many Width of Fabric (WOF) strips to cut).
For example, if your quilt measures 36″ x 48″:
width 36″ + length 48″ = 84″
84″ x 2 = 168″ perimeter
168″ + 20″ = 188″ total length needed
188″ / 40″ = 4.7 strips (round up to 5)
- 1 ½” strip of accent fabric for binding (this is the “flange”–the bit that sticks out toward the center of the quilt)
- 1 ¼” strip of binding fabric
- Thread (For the stitching that shows on the front, I often use 50wt Aurifil, but a heavier thread adds some interesting texture. For the bobbin, I like to use either monofilament or a color that coordinates with the backing.)
Start stitching your faux flange binding!
Join each set of strips together to create two long strips.
4. Stitch together your 1 ¼” binding strip and your 1 ½” accent strip lengthwise with a ¼” seam allowance.
7. Lay the binding right side down on one of the long edges of the BACK of the quilt, matching the raw edges.
8. Leaving about a 6” tail of binding, start sewing (¼” seam allowance) along one edge and backstitch to secure your stitching. Continue stitching until you’re a few inches from a corner.
12. Backstitch at the corner, then attach the binding to the side. Repeat until you’ve turned the fourth corner.
13. On the side where you started, sew only until you’re about 12″ from where you started, then backstitch and clip the threads.
16. Do the same for the other binding end.
17. Cut off the binding ends on the lines.
20. Stitch on the line, then check again to be sure the binding folds correctly.
21. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4″ and finger-press it open.
22. Lay the remaining binding flat and stitch it down, backstitching at both ends.
23. Press the faux flange binding away from the back.
24. Flip the quilt over and press the binding around to the front, mitering the corners so they fold in the opposite direction from the back.
25. Change to your chosen thread for the stitches that will show on the front. Change the bobbin thread to monofilament or thread that coordinates with the backing fabric.